TEXAS-BARBEQUE - GENUINE SLOW SMOKIN'

Blacksmithing 101
The making of a Fire Duck
Making the tine

Here are some of the steps involved in hand forging.   I do most of my forging in the evening or early morning when it's cool.    T-shirt, shorts, and sandals are the dress for this climate, but be careful where your feet are when you drop something!   Fast reflexes are a plus when working with red hot metal.

Measuring Cutting

The tines are measured,  marked with a soapstone,  and cut.   I use an old circular saw with a thin metal cutting blade.

De-burring Heating in the forge

The ends of the bar stock are de-burred with a 6" grinding wheel and the pieces are heated in the forge.   Note the "hot spot" where the gas jet points into the interior.   I use this spot for heating the tips.

Twisting the tine Twisting the tine

For a fancy tine,  red hot square bar is chucked in the leg vise and twisted with a wrench.   For a plain tine,  I use round stock and skip the twist.    I'm working with 3/8 inch square stock in the first picture,  1/2 inch square stock in the second.   The length of the bar shortens a bit when it's twisted.

Straightening Quenching

The tine is straightened on the flat anvil,  a 1-1/2 inch thick steel plate resting on a stump.   Everything but the tip I'm going to work with next is quenched.   The white things in the water are boiling water bubbles from the red hot metal.    They don't photograph well.

Heating the tip Crosspeening

The tip is heated and moved to the anvil.   Four or five trips to the forge are needed for each end.   One trip is called a "heat".    The hammer is called a "cross-peen" because it has a wedge shapped face,  the cross,  that is first used to stretch the metal by striking it with this face,  creating notches that are then smoothed out with the flat face.   This process is called "drawing".     Peen pretty much just means "odd shaped end on a hammer opposite the flat face used for working metal".    Here I'm using the cross-peen to stretch the metal.    I use a ball-peen for setting and shaping rivets.

Drawing the points Drawing the points

Now the flat face of the hammer is used to smooth out the marks and extend the point.    A point can be worked for about 30 seconds before it has lost too much heat to continue.   I usually have 3 or 4 pieces at a time in the forge so I can work on one while the others are heating.

Pointing the tip Forming the tine shape

The very tip is pointed at each end on the edge of the anvil.    Then the shape of the tine is started around the horn.

Forming the tine shape Forming the tine shape

A few more heats and the shape begins to take place with carefully placed blows.    It's nearly finished!   After the shape is completed,  a final quench and it's ready to have the forge slag stripped.    Slag is a flaky grey oxidation by-product related to rust that forms on the surface whenever metal is heated beyond red hot.

NEXT PAGE   
Making the haft.


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